Gaudi, Gaudi, Gaudi: Barcelona Day 4 (9 Sep 2013)

There were two places in Barcelona that Sue really wanted to see – La Sagrada Familia and Park Güell.  Today was Park Güell day.

Park Güell

We decided to enter from the top of the park (built 1900-1914) rather than via the popular tourist entrance, though to get there we discovered involved a steep climb uphill, fortunately some of it with outdoor escalators! This gave us some peace to enjoy the scenery before we hit the madness below! At the top are paths winding through shrubs and trees, with some good views of Barcelona. There is also Les Trois Creus sculpture-cum-cairn comprising, yes, three crosses – at the top of the park (and not part of Gaudi’s work)!

Gradually we wended our way down to the main event … Casa Gaudi  (the little Museum in the house in which Gaudi lived for most of the last 20 years of his life), the deservedly famous “sea-serpent” rolling bench, the colonnades and birds nests, the salamander sculpture, pavilions, etc. You could spend hours there, looking at the details, and thinking about their meaning.

It was all wonderful, but oh dear the crowds, particularly around the mosaic statues and fountains near the entrance. People were draped over everything. no chance to photograph anything as itself which was a shame … But such is travel: “Here I am in front of X!” I know it’s nice to take a few photos locating us as travellers but it seemed to be running amok at the park! And then we met two English women who not only didn’t know what was Australia’s capital but had never even heard of it when we told them! Not our most inspiring of experiences, but the park itself was!

Casa Milà or La Pedrera (The quarry)

After getting the Metro back to the city centre and having a quick bite to eat at a fairly nondescript cafe, we walked along Passeig de Gracia, as we planned to do after our quick intro on Day 1. And then it was decision time: which Gaudi building to enter? Both – Casa Battlò and Casa Milá – are interesting, had long queues and are expensive to enter. We decided on Casa Milá which was built (1906-12) as an apartment building. The family, as was common in that time, lived in the sumptuous downstairs apartment and rented out the rest. The building is now owned and managed by a major bank, Catalunya Caixa Foundation. We were able to see its famous roof, attic with its multiple catenery arches, and one apartment.

We got the audio guide and were tickled by the comment made by one of Gaudi’s architect lecturers upon Gaudi’s graduation, that “I don’t know whether we are sending out a madman or a genius”. Time has provided his answer but it may have been different had Gaudi not had some supportive, open-minded clients who let him have free reign. It’s not always thus for creative architects.

Religion (after his rebellious youth) and nature informed much of Gaudi’s thinking and work. He wrote once that:

The great book, always open and which we must make efforts to read, is the book of Nature.

Anyhow, we were very glad we decided to visit one of his residential buildings in L’Eixample. It was fascinating to contemplate from a conceptual, artistic and engineering point of view. But we’ll say no more, and let the pictures do the talking.

End of the day

All this took a long time so no siesta … It was the laundry, post office and a quick meal in a little place we found in a back alley before finally collapsing into bed with our never-ending coughs!

Three-words

LEN: Curvy, Crowds, Sangria
SUE: Colour, Creativity, Coughs

and the stills…

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and the videos…

Serpentine Benches, Park Güell, Barcelona

 

Panorama or rooftop, Casa Milà, Barcelona