Mind-boggling: Barcelona Day 3 (8 Sep 2013)

Today started our Modernism adventure proper, with two  pre-booked guided tours of two rather different examples of Modernism or Modernisme. This is the style – primarily architectural but also involving other arts such as painting, sculpture, poetry, design and decorative arts – which occurred around the turn of the 19th-20th centuries. It roughly equates with similar movements elsewhere, such as Art Nouveau. Modernisme though was pretty specific to Catalunya and was centred on Barcelona. It features curves and dynamic shapes over more static forms.

Palau de la Musica Catalana

We visited the Palau on the recommendation of Sue’s internet bookgroup friend, Dvora, who now lives in Figueres … and we are so glad we did. The Palau is a concert hall built 1905-08 by lesser known, to us, architect Lluís Domenech i Montaner. It seats over 2000 people and yet has a surprisingly intimate feel. Montaner’s work has a more, dare we say it, classical feel than Gaudi’s, but is nonetheless exuberant and imaginative.  Our guide – you can only see the interior with a guide or by attending a concert – was wonderfully enthusiastic despite giving the tour 6 times a day.

She said there were three main ideas incorporated into the building – Nature, Mediaeval influences, Nationalism – and all were clearly evident to us. Light was also critical and it is apparently particularly special to attend a daytime concert because of the amount of natural light that Montaner designed into the building.

There are so many beautiful features, but one of the most outstanding is the huge inverted cupola-cum-skylight representing the sun. It is gorgeous and has the fluid lines typical of the style. We liked the fact that the sculpture over the stage is not symmetrical: the left represents traditional or popular music (with a bust of Anselm Clavé who revived Catalan folk songs and girls singing); the right represents classical music (with a bust of Beethoven and a sculpture of the Ride of the Valkyries). Behind the stage is an orange mosaic wall containing relief sculptures of 18 (more than the classical 9) muses from the 5 continents, playing local instruments and wearing national dress.

Recurring images or motifs are roses and the flag of St George, for Barcelona’s patron saint, and the distinctive Catalan flag. Catalans celebrate 23 April – St George’s day – as lovers’ day. The men give women roses and the women give men a book – roses for love, a book forever. As our guide said, she thinks that’s unfair, she wants a rose and a book! According to Wikipedia, books are often mutually given these days!

Quatre Gats/4 Gats

As we were within walking distance of another recommendation – from our neighbours Andy and Phil – we headed there for lunch: the 4 Gats where Picasso would meet his artist friends. We had a drink in the bar area, as we were a little early for lunch, and then went into the dining room for lunch. Sue enjoyed her chicken Catalan style, and will be hunting for recipes. It’s a great place, albeit now clearly on the tourist trail, and we enjoyed the atmosphere.

La Sagrada Familia

Everyone who goes to Barcelona needs to go to La Sagrada Familia, Gaudi’s crowning though still unfinished achievement. We are glad we’d visited all those previous cathedrals because you can see the way he’s built on the old Gothic and Moorish traditions to create something rather amazing, even though only 8 of the planned 18 main spires have been completed. Building commenced in 1882 (1883 with Gaudi). Gaudi died in 1926, tragically run over by a tram when he was 74. The aim is to finish it in 2026, the centenary of his death. Hard to see it happening! The plan though is inspired and inspiring.

The cathedral is built around the idea of the Holy Family – Joseph, Mary and Jesus. This is reflected in the plan for the spires which are, in ascending height: 12 for the Apostles, 4 for the Evangelists, one for the Virgin Mary and  the tallest for Jesus.

By the time of his death, Gaudi had completed most of the first of three facades, the Nativity, which represents Joy. It’s highly decorative, flowing and curvy. The Passion facade, representing sadness and suffering, is far more austere and angular, and is dramatic. The Glory facade commenced in 2002 and is still under construction.  Gaudi did rough sketches but apparently always intended that other architects and styles would complete the building as has been the case with the great cathedrals of the world.

And then there’s the inside (which was only consecrated by the Pope in 2010). It’s quite a surprise after the nativity facade. It’s huge, simple, airy, light. It feels like a forest of tall trees and is decoratively understated by comparison, though that doesn’t mean it’s plain – of course. It made you want to sit, rest and soak up the atmosphere.

Meson del Cafe

It had been a tiring day and so we ended back at yesterday’s little bar-cafe, Meson de Cafe, where we branched out a little, eating snails, among other things. We do love trying tapas!

Three-words

LEN: Fantastic Decorated Buildings
SUE: Wonder, Beauty, Joy

and the stills…

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and the movies…

Video panorama of the inside of La Sagrada Familia