Most of this day was taken up with another long train trip, during which Sue managed to catch up on post writing, though not much reading. We left our hotel at 8am and reached our Barcelona hotel around 3pm.
After the usual 30 minutes to freshen up, it was off for our last orientation walk with Cyra. She took us, among other places, to:
- Las Rambla: the busiest pedestrian street in the world, she said. It has some 3,500 people walking it per day, of whom Cyra warned 3,000 were up to no good. An exaggeration from what we could see, but she wanted to impress upon us that Barcelona has a lot of pickpockets and that we should watch out. Las Rambla is not our kind of place – full of tourists and of people trying to get tourists to eat at their place or buy their things – but you have to see these places don’t you!
- Plaça de Catalunya: a large square in central Barcelona that is the city centre and the place where the old city (including Barri Gòtic where we were staying) and the 19th century-built Eixample meet. Cyra says it’s where people often arrange to meet.
- L’Eixample: the area built in the late 19th century by the middle to upper class when the older town was getting too crowded. It includes many great examples of the architecture from the modernism movement, including …
- Casa Batllò, our first glimpse of Gaudi! It was built between 1904-06, as a home for a family. The only stipulation in the commission, Cyra told us, was that they must be able to get a grand piano in! Gaudi failed to deliver on that – but who cares when you get such a distinctive, inspired building? Anyhow, it was exciting to see our first Gaudi. We hope to walk the street again at a slower pace during our stay.
More linguistics
Many of you probably know about the Catalans and their relationship with the rest of Spain. It’s often fiery and based on a desire for independence (particularly from Madrid and the Castilians!) They have their own language which is once again, post-Franco, being taught in schools. And so, as in Galicia, we have needed to learn a few new words such as Carrer not Calle for streets (though some maps use Calle while street signs use Carrer which you need to be attuned to!), sortida not salida for exit, plaça not plaza for square. You can detect the French influence can’t you?
Farewell dinner
And then the time finally came to say goodbye. Cyra took us to a restaurant that our friend Jenny had recommended, the restaurant in the Mercat de Santa Caterina. (That is, it’s in the historic Santa Caterina markets which, though recently remodelled, have been operating since 1848). Jenny was right. It’s a great place. It has four kitchens cooking different food from around the world and the food comes out when it’s ready. Sue chose Mediterranean dishes – Goat’s Cheese with Grilled Vegetables, followed by Cod with Garlic Mousseline. The former was yum, while the latter was beautifully moist but a little salty for her liking. Len chose heartier dishes – Baked Provolone Cheese with Tomatoes, followed by Roast Suckling Pig with Potatoes. He enjoyed both his. Several of us tried some Cava, Spanish sparkling wine that can be white or rose. It was nicely dry.
But that wasn’t the end, as Cyra had a dessert place to take us to called Bubo. Wow, was that a beautiful place too. Pastries, macarons, mousses and the like. A few people, including one of the Wherries – but we won’t say who – had two desserts!
And still, Cyra had more. You’d think she’d have had enough of us, but no, it was off to a Wine Bar, where some tried another Cava, before we hit cobblestones for home. We said our sad goodbyes to what had been a great group. Everyone was always on time (though we always knew who’d be the last and who’d be the first), no one demurred at any shared costs, people kept an eye on each other when we were out in a group, no one whinged, and differences were respected. Oh, and the ACT beat Victoria by one as the most represented Aussie state/territory in the group. All in all a good bunch of courteous, reasonable people who were always ready to have a go – and an enthusiastic leader who had plenty of things for us to give a go!
Three-words
SUE: Crowds, Modernism, Replete
LEN: Slowly, Narrow Gothic
and the stills…
Nice try on the Spanish title, but el grupo is masculine, so you should’ve used the nuestro form.
Oh, you’re right David … Will fix it. That’s what you get with pidgin Spanish!
Glad you enjoyed the restaurant – and what lovely dishes! Hope the rest of Barcelona goes well… Muchas jealous over here 🙂
It was great, Jenny. When I asked the the tour leader where we were going for dinner, she said it doesn’t really have a name and I said, would it be in the Santa Caterina markets? I was thrilled that we were going there. W considered going back but time defeated us in the end.
Hi guys, your trip sounds great. Don’t forget to have a coffee at the 4 Cats in Barca, if you get a chance. It’s about a ten minute walk from La Rambla.
Phil
Oh we’ve done it Phil … That was in our itinerary, based on your recommendation. You’ll read about it in the next post I think. Unfortunately we didn’t do Montserrat … With these darned colds we decided to not do a dAy trip which is a shame.
I would have gone for three desserts!
LOL Carolyn, and you would have beaten them all! The desserts were small though!
Montserrat? Don’t feel too bad about that. I spent 5 days in Barcelona and didn’t have any time for a day trip either to Montserrat or Dali’s birthplace up the coast.
Oh good …I’ll stop beating ourselves up then David. We did though visit Figueres … Dali’s birth town I believe … But didn’t explore. That’s coming in a post or two!
No, I didn’t like Las Rambla either, and I have a souvenir from there that I’d rather not have. A careless tourist in a hurry dragged her heavy metal suitcase over my foot (maybe she thought it was a bump in the footpath?) – and I still have the nerve damage, more than three years later.
But the Gaudi buildings were sublime, and we loved our walk through the area:)
Happy days!
Agree Lisa … But that’s a shame about your foot. We did more Gaudi in the next couple of days … Coming soon. What an artist eh?
Avidly watching the slide show for dessert photos… THERE THEY ARE!!!. Oh Gaudi. I must go to there.
Thought you’d enjoy them!